Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Everything Changes... Everything Remains The Same
While at Malibu the other day I realized just how much surfing had changed. I get so wrapped up in the film vs. digital world that I didn't see that change is everywhere. When surfing became popular in the 60's everyone was riding long boards. Change came but it was an evolution of design so it wasn't apparent as change. Boards got shorter and lighter and fins were added in multiples.
Today in the water you'll find alias, the ancient Hawaiian boards, long boards short boards and reproductions on every era's designs. The "change" is that everyone isn't riding the same current design, but designs of choice selected from over a 100 years dating back to the ancient Hawaiian wooden boards. Surfers are no longer a single entity, but sub-cultures with in the sub-culture of surfing.
I'm not so sure this is a good thing, as short boarders dislike long boarders, long boarders dislike short boarders and everyone dislikes the stand up paddlers! Maybe the digital film thing isn't so bad after all, at least we're still using cameras.